Northern Peru: Whacked out on huacas

After six days on a press tour of the north coast of Peru, my mind is reeling with the richness and complexity of the country's ancient cultures. Everyone's heard of the Incas and their most famous wonder of the world -- Machu Picchu. It's reached by turning south from Lima. But head north and there are many other civilizations that predate the Spanish conquerors with lost cities and buried treasure that will excite even the most jaded traveller. All from huacas, which look like large dirt hills but are so much more. Thanks to an explosion of archeological discoveries in the last 20 years, fantastic pyramids, temples and amazingly intricate artifacts -- many in gleaming gold and precious jewels -- are emerging from dozens of huacas.